Biography

On the floor rays of rust and cherry-red light filter reflections, the play of chiaroscuro through Chinese windows, creating lacy paper-cuts and origami patterns on floors and walls. These shadowy images spill over the creative mess of sketches and paper-cuts strewn on the wooden desk where Kathrin von Rechenberg works, refining the textures and lightness that characterize her choice of fabrics. The walls are covered with pinned, hand-drawn sketches attached to pieces of cut fabric in indefinable shades of rust. Her blue indigo-stained hands, almost sculptural when folded, reach out to touch the colors, feel the textures.


When she breaks the rhythm of her work to go out into her garden maybe that‘s where she captures all the details of the afternoon sun and the blossoms. 

Sometimes, you enter the studio to the sound of classical music playing and recognize her love for Bach, inspiring her as she leads her small team with precision and attention to every minute detail.
Her rigorous and unrelenting process in the search for the lines and architecture to be teased out of the unstructured silk fabrics that then freely adorn the shapes of her wearers, is unique. 

She folds and cuts the patterns into geometric shapes - triangles, squares, and lines - then blends those freely, releasing the fabric from its geometrical grid and transforming it into light and floating forms, akin to musical punctuation, stops and pauses. 

These are the lines and melodies found in free-form poetry: she wrapped you as if everything that exists, aromas, light, metals in your dress and it fly like a dash of wind around your body.

«Kathrin von Rechenberg has made her home and has been working in Beijing since 2000. Graduated from Paris’s distinguished fashion and design school, the “Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne” she honed her craft in various Haute Couture houses such as Jacques Fath, Jean-Louis Scherrer, Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix and Chanel before striking out on her own. 

She came to China in search of a very special fabric known as “tea-silk” which has since defined her and become the signature on which she founded her own label. It remains today a cornerstone of her collections. The natural dyeing process of this special silk continues to fascinate her and has inspired her to work with other natural dyes. She creates her own materials by experimenting with different traditional and natural dyeing

Kathrin von Rechenberg’s boutique is based in a fascinating environment revealing traces of the past - a rare and preserved corner in the old capital of Beijing. Here, you can still find peace and birdsong, and an escape from the insistently raucous noise of the City. This quiet location that takes you back in time, is where Kathrin has chosen to establish her brand, among the traditional Chinese windows and doors of the former Sino-French University, a stone’s throw from the Forbidden city. The shadows of Old Beijing connect her with her surroundings and make her a part of this culture, allowing her to touch the past and draw from the walls, new inspirations for her collections.

Her boutique and the place itself become infused with the traditional culture and at the same time, generate their own culture. There is a piano standing in the center of the room, for Kathrin enjoys playing her flute and sharing her love of music with her friends. This other, classical training and discipline mingles her own culture with the classic culture of the city of Beijing. Those notes and voices, those harmonies and tones, influence her work and her designs.

Kathrin’s inspiration, is born of her unique integration with Chinese tradition. Her creations have led her to work with the singer Gong Linna and her husband, the German composer Lao Luo. Inspired by their music she created in 2016 a special collection for their Concert, “The Five Elements of Love” at “Beijing Tianqiao Performing Art Center” in which she conveyed through silks, passionate fire, yellow and jades clashing with the elements.

文化空间

凯瑟琳··瑞星博的设计创作室选址在一个迷人的环境中,带有历史的痕迹——一个罕见的和保存完好的角落,在古老的首都北京。在这里你仍然可以找到平静和鸟鸣声一种逃离城市的、喧闹的噪音。这个安静的位置带你回到过去这就是凯瑟琳选择建立自己工作室的地址,在中国传统门窗建筑的中法大学旧址里距离紫禁城一箭之遥。老北京的光影将她与她的创作环境紧密融合成为品牌文化的一部分成为她的新系列作品灵感的集合

凯瑟琳的创作设计室充满传统文化,同时造就了rechenberg的品牌文化。走进工作室便可看到一架钢琴放置在这里凯瑟琳喜欢吹奏长笛并和她的朋友们分享她对音乐的热爱。接受过专业顶级服装院校的培训,她将中西方文化结合,中式经典北京城文化。音乐和自然界的一切对她的工作和设计起到重要影响

凯瑟琳的灵感来自于中国独特传统的集合。她与歌唱家、中国新艺术音乐创立人龚琳娜和她的丈夫德国作曲家老锣合作。灵感来自他们的音乐,凯瑟琳在2016年创建了一个特殊的系列,为他们的爱五行音乐会,在北京天桥艺术中心”。她运用手工染色与香云纱面料进行创作,香云纱烫金表达金属元素,槐米染色表达木的元素,靛蓝染色表达水元素,薯莨染色表达热情的火元素石榴皮染色表达土元素,用香云纱把金木水火土五种元素融合到一起,设计了经典的五行系列

Craftsmanship means producing simplicity from complexity.
Kathrin von Rechenberg has honed her craft for the past two decades to produce simple, elegant garments from complex structures and designs. Her approach is that of a sculptor as she crafts and teases the fabric into the desired shapes on a traditional wooden mannequin. Never afraid of going the extra mile, many of Kathrin von Rechenberg’s designs are reversible, adding complexity to the confection of the clothes so that they look and are simple to wear regardless.

She is a stickler for detail and many of her designs are finished with fine leather or tea-silk piping and fagotting, to enhance the paper-thin profile of her fabrics. Thanks to her long working experience in Paris Haute Couture Houses, her made-to-measure garments are made to fit each wearer perfectly.
She dedicates herself to training and coaching her staff so that they are capable of meeting her exacting standards. Many of her team have been working alongside her for 10 years or more.          

制作过程   

工艺制作过程看似简单实际是复杂的。
凯瑟琳··瑞星博经过数十年的实践磨炼,逐渐形成了简洁的、优雅的、结构设计风格。她在设计时对待面料,如同雕塑家雕刻作品一样,在人体模特上剪裁、别缝,塑造完美的立体裁剪效果。不畏艰辛凯瑟琳为了达到满意的效果,做每件事情都追求完美。凯瑟琳··瑞星博的许多设计作品都是可双面穿着的精致的服装手工工艺技术的复杂性也随之增加,这样服装看起来是简洁而不简单的

她是一个非常注重细节的人她的许多设计作品,细节融入了皮边、手工线袢。这一切要感谢她数年来在巴黎高级时装工作室的学习和吸取经验她定做的衣服适合每位穿着者

她耐心的培训和指导员工使他们有能力独立完成工作,在制作中她用严格的标准对待自己和要求员工。因为她平易近人,她的团队人员已经和她一起工作了十年以上

Tea-silk is all but forgotten in present-day China. A complicated, completely natural dyeing process makes tea-silk unique and precious. Kathrin von Rechenberg collaborates with a traditional dyeing workshop in the Pearl River Delta where tea-silk processing is still carried out by hand.

The silk fabric is dyed 30-40 times with the juice of the shuliang root (dioscorea cirrhosa) and after each dyeing process, laid flat in the open air to dry in the sunshine. Covering it with river mud after the dyeing gives it its characteristic glossy brown/black sheen. This natural and traditional fabric, processed in a completely ecological way, reflects water, sun, sand and changes in temperature. Its luster, like that of the pearl, increases with time. The uneven shading makes the fabric unique. Properly aged tea-silk is as rare as fine wine; thus some ‘items’ are only available in limited quantities.

香云纱

香云纱在当今的中国几乎被人们遗忘。一个复杂的传统的珍贵的染色工艺。香云纱学名莨纱,后为莨纱绸是莨纱与莨绸的统称,或称为靠纱。是广东省的一种古老的手工织造和染整制作的植物染色面料,已有数百年的历史。由于制作工艺独特,制作时间长,香云纱稀少而珍贵。

凯瑟琳..瑞星博将准备好的生丝面料交给传统的染织工场去染整,只有在中国南部珠江三角洲地区才有流传下来的传统手工染制技术。

整个染制过程是全手工完成的,真丝的绸坯要经过30多次的薯莨汁液浸染。因为一定要经过光合作用的催化,每次都要在草地上晾晒后再次浸染。漫长的过程中最后的步骤便是将河泥覆盖于面料之上,使得河泥中富含的铁元素,与薯莨汁液中的单宁酸及丝绸的纤维发生化学反应。这一步通常是在黎明前完成,这样阳光就可以充分穿透面料发生反应。经过河泥覆盖的一层会呈现光滑亮泽的黑色,而另外一面则是红褐色。

传统自然的香云纱的制作过程中,薯莨、河泥、草地、阳光是晒莨中必不可少的,只有这样才能取得持久浓郁的染整效果。凯瑟琳挚爱的香云纱彰显着纯净的审美韵味。就像稀有的陈年红酒,至少要静置几年后,才可以形成其特有的浓郁色彩,和持久的魅力。

Besides Xiang Yunsha, for which natural dyeing process rechenberg studio commissions artisans in the Pearl River Delta, Kathrin von Rechenberg dyes a range of fabrics herself. She uses locally grown traditional dyes such as pomegranate peel, shuliang and banlangen (indigo) all of which are used in traditional Chinese medicine.

Natural dye has a great luminosity that gives fabrics a vividness of colour and texture which cannot be reproduced with chemical dyes. Experimenting with different traditional dyeing and resist-dyeing methods often involves a number of time-consuming and laborious steps. This painstaking work allows Kathrin von Rechenberg to obtain a variety of colours and textures and create one-of-a-kind fabrics and garments.

In each timelessly designed, hand-dyed and handcrafted piece you can feel its connection to thousands of years of history. 

纯天然染色面料

设计师凯瑟琳··瑞星博女士不仅使用在广东珠江边上自然染色的中国传统面料香云纱,她也自己染色面料,使用传统的植物染色例如:石榴皮,薯莨和板蓝根(靛蓝),都是传统的中药。

植物染色的方法给予真丝面料自然的光泽,每一次的染色都会有不同的效果。经过反复的试验,采用不同的染色工艺,染色的次数,温度以及手工的繁琐的步骤,设计师获得不同颜色的面料及具有创意的面料纹理。

经典的设计,自然的染色,纯手工的制作,rechenberg作品让我们品味着过去和未来即在当下。

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